started by Kendall
Please feel free to add to it as you wish, following the below format, and I will try to monitor, keep it organized, and factual, to the best of my knowledge…
1. Never set your extruder temp over 210°C
-it's not necessary for ABS, and higher temperatures can cause extruder failure…
Added 9-28-12 by Ian: The black insulator barrel will begin to melt at 250C, softening the threads that hold the brass heater barrel in. Some users have had their nozzle fall onto the print bed because they were printing at 230C. The temperature is measured at the nozzle, but the top of the barrel can get as much as 20C hotter so a setting of 220C can be hot enough to put the extruder in danger.
2. Never let your 'up to heat' extruder, stand idle for more than 10 minutes
-prolonged heat exposure to ABS will make it start to degrade, this degraded material could clog your nozzle…
Added 9-28-12 by Ian: If your printer needs to "idle" for a while, and you don't want to heat the nozzle all the way back up from room temperature, cool it down to 80-100C. If the extruder starts skipping and can only push out a tiny bit of plastic, the nozzle may be clogged by burned ABS. If the plastic is brown and crumbly, this is what is happening. If it is only a small amount, you might be able to clear the clog with a very thin wire, like a guitar string. If a lot of plastic has burned from being too hot for too long, it might become necessary to take the hot end apart and clean out the brass barrel and nozzle with a torch.
Added 12-28-14 by NewDestination: If you let your Printer for a while in the "heated up state" you may have to remove the old burned filament out of the nozzle. for that you have to use a wood drill and drill it carefully out. That means you have to disassamble the hole extruder… takes more than one hour.
3. Never take apart the acrylic pieces of your extruder without guidance
Added 10-5-12 by John: The acylic pieces of the extruder are deceptively hard to put together. Unless you consider yourself good at puzzles, it may be in your best interest to wait for instruction from the Solidoodle support team to resolve extruder related issues.
4. When un-packing your Solidoodle
Added 10-21-12 by Kendall: 'Do Not' remove the Orange Tape holding the wires to the print head, and 'Do Not' remove the Orange Tape from the print bed. This Tape is called Kapton Tape, and it is necessary. Also; 'Do Not' remove any of the Black pieces of tape that are holding any of the wires in place…
5. Never push the [Extrude Icon] while trying to clean the orifice
Added 11-01-12 by Kendall: It has been suggested on many forums for cleaning clogs, that you run a wire (smaller than the orifice hole (.35mm diameter (.0137"))) into the heated nozzle hole. This does work, but your hand is directly below the hot end; a.) bumping the nozzle can cause sever burns. b.) drooling plastic can cause sever burns. c) hitting the [Extrude Icon] can; c1.) spurt hot plastic out. c2.) if you have the wire in the extruder while pushing the [Extrude Icon], excessive pressure will shoot the wire out of the nozzle, possible pushing the wire right into your fingers, as well as; extruding hot plastic at the same time, that could adding to your, not so wonderful experience…
6. Avoid over tension belts when aligning XY pulleys
Added 06-22-14 by Amir: